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The following resources (in alphabetical order) will help you out with the stitches and techniques used in Willowfall:
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To block the sample, I used four blocking wires, blocking mats, pins, and three rolled bath towels. After giving it a nice, long soak and squeezing the excess water out with a towel, here's what I did:
My first step was to run a blocking wire through both sides of the top and bottom openings of the cowl (four total). I left about 3-4 inches between where one wire stopped and the other began so that the cowl could curve around the towels. This step isn't essential, but it helped me get nice, straight edges. When I was finished placing the wires, I laid the cowl out on my mats so that the top and bottom edges (and their wires) were parallel.
Next I added the towels. I rolled two bath towels (blue in the photos) and folded them in half (which may not be necessary, depending on how fluffy your bath towels are!). Then I tucked one through each side of the cowl along where I hadn't run a blocking wire. I ran a third rolled towel (purple in the photos) crosswise under the whole cowl and the other two towels. Its purpose was to get more airflow to the side of the cowl that was pressed against the mat. Once that was in place, I pushed the towels along the sides (blue) outward until they had pulled the lace pattern tight. As you can see in the first photo, they are slightly closer together at the top than at the bottom, which reflects the shape of the cowl.
Finally, I got out my pins. The sides were held out by the rolled towels, but I pinned the wires into place. The two wires closest to the mat I pinned to the mat itself. The top wires I pinned to the towels wherever I could. I also pulled the cowl edges straight where they curved around the towels and pinned them to the towels (second photo).
Tip: Because the towel isn't as firm as a mat, stick the pins in at a steep angle, pointing sharply toward the cowl with the head aiming away, to minimize how much they can slip.